Bug Repellent and Medications for Rabbits (For When They Go Outside)

Because the bugs outside are just so pesky, keeping a rabbit comfortable with all of these bugs outside is important, although they will only be outside for a while. Since bugs can play a giant toll on rabbit health, I would like to go over what medications you will want to have on hand before bringing a rabbit outside.

Different Types:

There are many different types of medications for different bugs, but from my knowledge, the most common bug repellents and medications are for ringworms, fleas, ear mites, parasites, and tics.

This is where you would contact someone to figure out different medication options and services, but who would you contact? This answer is simple.

Where to Get Them:

To get any bug medications and repellents for your rabbit, I would go to your vet no matter what. They should know your rabbit’s history and past illnesses to be able to give and/or suggest the appropriate amounts of the drug.

The importance behind asking the rabbit-savvy vet, instead of going with what the internet says is crucial. The dosages and drugs could be much different, not to forget that there is a lot of false information and misinterpretations on the internet, which could cause many predicaments in finding the correct medicine. Whenever in doubt, ask your rabbit-savvy vet.

Don’t forget that vets can explain and present the information in a teaching manner. If you have a question with how to give a pill, or find a medication of some sort, your vet will know, and if you aren’t comfortable in vaccinating or medicating your rabbit, your vet will gladly help you.

Why Are They Important?

Giving medications can be very nerve-wracking and complicated, but in doing so, you could easily save your rabbit’s life. There have been many instances with rabbits becoming seriously ill because of bugs, not to forget parasites, because they weren’t properly medicated. Rabbits are very susceptible to bug problems, so giving a rundown of your rabbit before they go back inside in crucial as well as ensuring that your rabbit is comfortable.

I would like to mention that even though there isn’t really a medication to prevent this problem, flystrike is now in this factor. Flystrike shouldn’t really be a problem inside, because it’s much more complicated for a fly to get to a rabbit inside, but if you bring your rabbit outside, they MUST be properly groomed and on a sustainable diet. An unsustainable diet that is causing sticky stools with an ungroomed rabbit can attract flies, to then cause flystrike.

Flystrike is a condition in which multiple flies will lay their eggs to produce larva, and when the larva hatches, they will literally eat your rabbit’s skin away until they have lost so much that they pass. Flystrike is probably one of the most dangerous and painful conditions and sicknesses out there, so please, feed your rabbit a good diet and groom them properly to avoid flystrike.

Risks That Come Without Bug Prevention:

Like I just mentioned, without proper medications, bugs can cause serious illness and death in rabbits. I can’t stress how important bug medications are to save your rabbit. With the most common problems and rabbits and bugs, I have found that the most common risks without medication are: Hearing loss, head tilt, extreme illness, organ problems and failures, skin irritation, and death.

Know Your Rabbit’s Past Problems Outside:

If your rabbit has had problems before adoption with bugs, please notify your vet. This could change dosages, medications, prescriptions, and awareness.

Before Oliver and Luna were sheltered and properly taken care of, the both of them were found with fleas, and some mites. Ollie, in particular, had ended up with so many fleas that the risk of him getting fleas has increased immensely, which is going to affect different dosages when I pick up his different medications. The past problems can cause many scenarios that are worth taking note of.

 

Link to Thumbnail Image (All credit goes to the photographer and owner of the photo)

 

Thank you so much for coming back once again. Please continue to come back every other day for a new post. If you found this post helpful, please leave a like and share this post with your family and friends. Until next time, continue to spread proper rabbit care, and I will talk to you soon in my next post, bye!

The Cinnamon Rabbit Breed

What’s better than a rabbit named after a spice, is the color of that spice, and is so energetic that it can spice up your life and make it a little more fun? In case this rabbit is a breed of your dreams, I would like to go over the details that I feel are important to know when picking out a rabbit.

The History Behind the Cinnamon Rabbit Breed:

The history behind this breed is quite simple. There was a woman by the name of Belle Houseman, in the 1960’s that had gotten a rabbit as a present. This rabbit happened to be a Chinchilla doe. Not long after, this same woman ended up with a New Zealand buck. The two mated and ended up with many purebreds, but then the father of Belle allowed crossbreeding.

A Checkered Giant and Californian were mixed into the breeding pattern, and from here, the first Cinnamon was born. This rabbit was born in the presences of a rabbit judge, J. Cyrol Lowett, who was very well known for his judging with rabbits.

Common Characteristics of This Breed:

The short fur of the Cinnamon rabbit is very easy to maintain overall, and is very soft as well. This color of this rabbit’s coat is very obvious, a shade of brown, very similar to the shade of the well known spice, cinnamon.

This rabbit isn’t particularly stocky, but does have a nice build to its body. The rabbit will have medium sized ears, a fairly rounded face, and multiple accents of color throughout its face. The Cinnamon’s face should be a dark brown, including the ears and the snout as well.

Common Personalities Found in This Breed:

This breed is a very docile and sweet rabbit. Honestly, this rabbit breed would work great for anyone in almost every situation. With proper equipment and care, this rabbit would do great with young children, older children, adults, families, and more!

This being said, the rabbit is going to be extremely friendly, so for those in need of an emotional support rabbit of some breed, this would be an amazing breed option. The gentleness and love that surrounds this rabbit is unbelievable. With proper introductions and training, this could be the most snuggly and supportive animal for you.

Sizing and Weight:

This breed in particular is considered a medium sized rabbit. The muscle on this rabbit is definitely there, but isn’t prominent like some other breeds. The overall body structure of this rabbit isn’t quite big enough to be a large rabbit, but the size of the body can easily avoid small breed standards.

The average weight for a healthy and happy Cinnamon rabbit should be anywhere from 9 to 11 pounds, which is quite large to be considered a medium sized rabbit. Like I said, the stock on the body isn’t quite enough to be a large rabbit, even though the weight is definitely there.

Common Medical Problems:

This breed doesn’t show any particular medical problems found throughout its genetics. The main thing is really just looking out for the small things that can cause large problems, like overgrown teeth, a threat to every rabbit, guinea pig, rat, mouse, hamster, gerbil, etc. Small problems can change to giant predicaments.

Extra Care:

This rabbit doesn’t need any extra care considering there aren’t really any medical problems throughout this breed. The only suggestion I would put out because of my research would have to be giving new areas and things to play in and with. This rabbit breed is very curious, like most rabbits, and to keep a rabbit going is probably the best you can do to keep them happy and energized.

Works Cited:

“Cinnamon Rabbit Breed Information and Pictures.” PetGuide, 20 Oct. 2017,                                    www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/cinnamon-rabbit/.

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Image (All credit goes to the photographer/owner of this photo)

Where to Bring Your Rabbit Outside to Play

Since summer is here, for at least half the world, I would like to go over where it would and wouldn’t be safe to bring a rabbit outside too. It’s a great idea to plan ahead for anything related to rabbits, so if you are currently in the season of winter, you happen to have more time to plan.

Where Is and Isn’t Safe?

Safe Places:

  • Treeless areas
  • Gas, pesticide, and chemical free grass (without barrier on ground)
  • Flat Area

Unsafe Places:

  • Trees nearby
  • Unsafe, non-foragable grasses and flowers in the area
  • Sloping ground
  • Raccoon and skunk interactive areas

Finding a Location:

There are many concepts to finding locations that would be options for where you can bring your rabbit.

  1. Are there trees?
  2. Are the grasses and flowers safe?
  3. Is the ground flat or not?
  4. Are there any possibilities that skunks or raccoons could have been in this area?

These are the four main questions that you should ask yourself before picking a location.

  • Trees should be avoided because of any squirrels that may try to get into the pen and harm or annoy your rabbit.
  • Grass and flowers should be rabbit safe if you are going to allow the ground to be open to your rabbit. That means that the area of the lawn that you will be placing the little area for your rabbit can’t be mowed.
  • If the ground of the area isn’t flat, the pen may not lay flat and could cause your rabbit to try getting out of the pen.
  • If skunks or raccoons have been in the area, the potential for diseases are very serious, not to forget that skunks and raccoons are both predators of rabbits.

 

Spectating?

When bringing a rabbit outside for playtime, spectating is vital for a rabbit. Not only are you preventing any predators from coming towards the pen, you are also there in case your rabbit freaks out, feels uncomfortable, or if your rabbit is trying to get out.

Spectating is much more fun when you have friends, family, and entertainment around. Bringing rabbits outside doesn’t have to be super stressful and forceful. If your rabbit gets along with your friends, or if they are bonded with another rabbit, allowing that friend or rabbit to interact with your rabbit could help your rabbit tremendously.

Scenarios:

  1. There happens to be a tree nearby:  Make sure to cover the pen that the rabbit(s) will be staying in. This way you won’t end up with a squirrel friend to take care of later.
  2. A raccoon was in the area where your rabbit is:  Cover the ground with a solid material. Raccoons can carry diseases that are fatal to rabbits through grass contact. Whether the raccoon was there recently or not, cover the ground. Better safe than sorry if you are unsure.
  3. You forgot something inside: If you were to leave something inside that you felt you needed, or you do need, do NOT go inside with your rabbit unsupervised. Even though you have the ground covered, and the pen is covered with a material over the top, you never know what may happen. Rabbits freak out easily, and if a rabbit is scared for whatever reason, a heart attack can occur and kill the rabbit, believe it or not.

 

Thank you for all of the support through this journey. I feel that this is a very important topic, and that many rabbit owners really do want to bring their rabbit outside, but they don’t know what to look for. Please share this post with your family, friends, and rabbit lovers. As always, I will post every other day, but until then, continue to spread proper rabbit care, and I will talk to you soon, bye!

 

Link to Thumbnail Image (All credit goes to the photographer and owner of this photo)

 

The Checkered Giant Rabbit Breed

Do you really know all about this rabbit breed? Would you like to know more? Do you want to figure out if this is about to be your dream rabbit? If this is the case, stick around to learn about the Checkered Giant and its history, common personalities, characteristics, its sizing/weight, any common medical problems, and extra care!

The History Behind the Checkered Giant Rabbit Breed:

The entire story isn’t quite clear, but the belief is that this rabbit was first recognized as a separate breed around 1800. The breed at this time was considered “Land Kaninchen.” The soon-to-be breed was either founded in France or Germany, but there were breeders in Germany who would take the “Land Kaninchen” rabbits and breed them to Flemish Giants. This made the “Lorraine”, or the “Great German Spotted Rabbit.”

It wasn’t until 1904 that the Great German Spotted rabbit was then bred to a black Flemish Giant to produce what we know today as the Checkered Giant. This rabbit was then transported to America six years later, to then be accepted into the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association).

Common Characteristics of the Checkered Giant:

This rabbit is known for its slender, but muscular build. The rabbit’s ears should be upright almost all of the time, but not expected to be all of the time like most breeds. The rabbit’s head is very broad and refined.

The coat of fur for the Checkered Giant is short and soft, allowing maintenance to be very simple and short-winded. The coat’s colors will usually consist of white with black/blue spots throughout the rabbit’s body.

The markings of this rabbit are very distinctive. The accepted ARBA markings include the butterfly on the nose, a line down the rabbit’s spine, and two spots of either side of the body. All of these markings must be either black or blue to meet the ARBA’s standards.

Common Personalities Found in This Breed:

The Checkered giant is a very sweet rabbit with quite the curiosity. They love the attention of owners, and really do take advantage of activity time. They love to stay active and enjoy their time out and about.

Size & Weight:

This is the first rabbit breed that I have gone over that is considered a giant, which is quite obvious due to the breed’s name. This breed has a very muscular body that still looks very slender somehow. Due to the slender factor of this breed, they can be quite long as well.

The average weight of a healthy Checkered Giant is anywhere from 11 to 13 lbs. That is one heavy bunny! These rabbits may look like the average rabbit, but in reality, they are large, heavy, and muscular animals.

Common Medical Problems:

This rabbit breed doesn’t have any known medical problems that are commonly found  within the genetics of this rabbit.

Extra Care:

This rabbit does need a very large encloser due to its stature. This means more work with cleaning the area for playtime. Larger rabbit, larger cage, larger area, that’s just how it is. This is all in the name of proper rabbit care.

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Image

“Checkered Giant Rabbit Breed Information and Pictures.” PetGuide, 20 Oct. 2017,                        www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/checkered-giant-rabbit/.

 

Thanks for all of the love and support that has been given throughout all of the last couple of posts. Please continue to come back every other day to learn more about rabbit care and different breeds. As always, continue to spread proper rabbit care, and I will talk to you soon, bye!

The Belgian Hare Breed Rabbit

Today, to go over a single breed rabbit. (there aren’t multiple related like the Argente rabbits) I would like to go over the Belgian Hare. As always, I will be going over the history, common characteristics, common medical problems, and more.

The History Behind the Belgian Hare Rabbit:

The Belgian Hare originated from Belgium, not very surprising, and they blew up to be awesome rabbits to breed. They were mainly known to be meat rabbits due to their “hearty meat”. It was already 1873 by the time that this breed was transported to England.

The breed was then transported to America in 1877, and was accepted into the National Belgian Hare Club, which was formed in 1897. The breed’s name was constantly being changed, but in 1972, the Belgian Hare breeders came together as a group and discussed. Not long after that, the breed was called the Belgian Hare.

Common Characteristics:

The Belgian Hare will usually have brownish-grey fur, a very curved back, and a thin looking structure. They are quite sturdy rabbits, despite their small stature. The rabbit’s coat is also very thin and doesn’t need any maintenance besides occasional run throughs.

Common Personalities:

This breed is very known to be sweet, but can be extremely protective from being known for being nervous. These rabbits are very active as well, so making sure that you are taking time to bond with this rabbit is very important, since it is quite skittish.

Size/Weight:

Belgian Hares are large sized rabbits and can really show it. They are very tall rabbits with long legs as well. Their backs arch tremendous amounts and are quite skinny, even though they can weigh quite a bit.

Belgian Hares will average a healthy 6 to 9 pounds of weight. Considering their tall stature, that isn’t much. If they were stockier, they would be a heady breed of rabbit.

Common Medical Problems:

The site says that this rabbit is susceptible to flystrike and mites from being outdoors since they are known to be “outdoor rabbits”, but no rabbit should ever be kept outdoors. Make sure that this rabbit is always kept indoors for general housing, like any other rabbit, especially since rabbits get spooked so easily, this breed in particular.

This rabbit has very short fur and should be monitored for any sort of skin irritations. The skin is very exposed compared to most rabbits, and for this breed in particular, I feel that it could show many signs needed to possibly save its life someday.

Even though that came from my mind and not from research, honestly, it’s common sense. This rabbit could also be more sensitive to cold, and that could also dry out its skin. I feel that your rabbit’s skin is like yours, it’s dry if hydration isn’t proper, remember that.

Extra Care:

The rabbit does have a little bit of extra care that I would like to recommend for anyone with this rabbit, or getting this rabbit. I would recommend bonding sessions with just you and the rabbit at least once a day. Since this rabbit is so skittish, you will want to build the trust in order to do more with your rabbit and give it a happy and very healthy life.

Sources:

Thumbnail Picture Link

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/belgian-hare/

 

Thank you for the continuous support that has been given. I will be posting like I have been, so come back in 2 days for a new post. In the mean time, share proper rabbit care and I will talk to you soon, bye!

Characteristics and Adaptations of Unsafe Forage for Rabbits

To finish off with unsafe forage, I would like to go over the characteristics and adaptations (if there are any for certain plants) of these different options. Please note that you should always look up what these plants look like, but my description is here to help in case you think you see a certain plant, you could check the description to match it to the plant.

I would suggest using this list as a source for if you were to go out and forage, that you would have it with you, along with pictures of all of the unsafe forage options. This way, you can insure that you will not giving any unsafe forage to your rabbit(s), or even touching anything poisonous.

Characteristics:

  • Foxgloves: Foxgloves are tall stemmed plants with bell shaped flowers. The flowers are located all throughout the stem and are a purple color, going darker on the more inside area of the flower, and going lighter on the outermost area of the flower.
  • Poppy: An average poppy will have red petals and a black, rounded stigma, similar to the stigma shape of a daisy. It has very small leaves that look very similar to what hemlock needle clusters would be.
  • Ivy: Ivies have very pointed leaves that are dark green. There are usually three main points on each leaf and are connected by a vine-like stem. This stem is very flexible and thin.
  • Buttercups: Buttercups are small, yellow flowers that are very similar to what a daisy would look like if it had an insanely tiny stigma and the petals were bright yellow and much more round. The petals are also much smaller than daisy petals.
  • Bluebells: Bluebells are very small, bell-like flowers that are extremely similar to what foxgloves look like. They are pretty much foxgloves with blue flowers. They have the bell-shape, blue flowers, long and tall stem, and the flowers that sprout throughout the entire stem.
  • Ragwort: Ragwort, or stinking willie, is a flower with yellow, pointed petals. The stem is quite tall and the leaves are very long, wide, and tend the stand partially upright. The leaves are also jagged-edged and dark green.
  • Arum: Arums are actually lilies that have an arrowhead-shaped flower. The stem is not all that tall and the leaves are a dull green and club-shaped. The flower itself is usually purple or white from what I have found.
  • Bryony: Bryony, or bryonia, is a plant that will commonly produce small, red berries and tiny, yellow flowers. The leaves are very overtaking and are a medium green color that are club-like.
  • Hemlock: Hemlocks are very broad and dark green trees that look like a lumpy pine tree. Their needles are grouped in a duck-foot formation and will grow buds on the end to start another formation. The needles are much shorter than pine needles and they are also all separate in a way.
  • Aconite: Aconite is also known as the “Devil’s Helmet” or “Wolf’s Bane” due the deadly poison it carries. Aconite is a purple flower with scooped petals and long, tall stems.
  • Celandine: There are two types of celandines, the lesser celandine, and the greater celandine. Either way, the flowers are both yellow. Lesser celandines have pointed petals, when greater celandines have rounded petals. The leaves are medium green and slightly jagged. The lesser celandine belongs to the buttercup family and the greater celandine belongs to the poppy family.
  • Corncockle: Corncockles are commonly found to be a pink-like purple shade and have slender stems with dark, pointed leaves that are also long and slender.
  • Cowslip: Cowslips have very tall stems with multiple flowers shooting out of the top of the stem. the petals are yellow and small, the flower itself being bell-shaped.
  • Fool’s Parsley: Fool’s parsley is a flower with very small and white flowers that are grouped together at the peak of the tall and slender stem. The leaves are flat and look like mini hemlock needle clusters. The leaves are not needles though, they are an actual leaf, just in the duck-foot formation.
  • Henbane: Henbane is also known as “Nightshade” due to its poisonous factors. The flower is bell-shaped and the center of the flower is a dark purple, the outermost area of the flower being a light yellow color. The flowers are sometimes found on one large stem in a row. The leaves are slightly pointed, look minorly fuzzy, and are very similar to what some tree leaves could look like.
  • Hedge Garlic: Hedge garlic, or garlic mustard, is a very green plant with jagged, club-shaped leaves that make up the majority of the plant. There are also tiny, white flowers that cluster at the top of a stem that shoots out of the center of the leaves. The leaves also tend to make the plant look as though it has its own mini bush.
  • Spurge: Spurge is a very wide and bushy plant that is commonly found as a weed, and is known to grow in any little crack, but turn into this widespread plant. When the plant has enough room, it will turn into a bush and has the capability to produce yellow flowers at the peak of each bushy stem.
  • Traveler’s Joy: Traveler’s joy, or “Old Man’s Beard”, is a white flower with petals in capability to grow extremely long to the point that it looks like a beard. The leaves are a medium green and are very round at the base and come to a point.
  • Tree Lupine: Tree lupine is a large bush that will produce yellow or white flowers at the peak of each point on a stem. The flowers are very small and like to grown around the entire end of the stem, creating a cattail look, except with flowers. The bush is a medium green and is quite rounded.
  • Wild Garlic: Wild Garlic, or “Ramsons”, are white flowers with rounded leaves at the base, and pointed at the peak. The leaves are quite long though. The flowers are very small and the petals have a pointed look. The leaves and flowers can be pulled from the ground to be used as a food source for humans, though you do have to be very careful. Always do extra research before eating wild plants, they may have certain parts of the plant that are poisonous.
  • Wood Sorrel: Wood sorrel is clover with little, white or yellow flowers that will sprout from the base of the clover. The only difference between this clover-looking-plant and actual clover is that this plant’s clover is connected with a vine. The vine is extraordinarily thin and grows the flowers from the base of the vines.

 

Adaptations and How They Help:

  • Foxgloves: Foxgloves carry an adaptation to soil and to nectar contents. They have an extremely high nectar content, attracting bees, butterflies, and humming birds. I would also like to note that part of foxglove plants are fatal to humans and animals, so don’t go and eat anything that you aren’t sure of.

This helps the foxglove by allowing the organisms that are attracted to the nectar to come and gather that nectar, and in turn, the organism has pollen stuck on its body, and by that, pollinating the plant.

  • Poppy: Arctic poppies are one of the most strong flowers, considering it is one of the northernmost growing plants that you will find. The flower’s structure is very tough, besides the petals. The flower is able to follow the sun, which attracts bugs.

This helps the poppies by allowing the bugs to come through their area and pollinate their plants. This is very important as northernmost areas don’t tend to have many pollinators, meaning that everyone of the pollinators have to count.

  • Ivy: Ivy is very commonly found in the more shady areas of a forest, but they are able to grow up trees to reach the sunlight easier.

This helps the ivy by allowing the photosynthesis to properly happen, not to forget that the plant is not only getting the sun it needs, it’s also getting nutrients from the ground as it climbs up trees.

  • Buttercups: Buttercups can easily tolerate flooding for 30 days, not to forget in low oxygen areas. This means that when there is a flood and there isn’t oxygen for the plants to use, the buttercup can store 30 days worth of oxygen.

This helps the buttercups by allowing the oxygen to continue to keep the plant’s capabilities of life going. All living organisms need oxygen, the buttercup showing that it is majorly important to it.

  • Bluebells: Bluebells are very well adapted to living in forests due to their ability to store energy and take advantage of the high energy periods and absorb the nutrients. This when they would complete their life cycle.

This helps the bluebells by allowing them to grow at an extremely rapid pace since they have the capabilities to store energy in their bulbs to use when full leaf comes around again to grow.

  • Ragwort: Ragwort has the ability to survive in many different habitats, allowing its population to spread and grow at a rapid pace.

This helps the ragwort by allowing the plant to grow in many different environments and habitats. They are also very compatible with certain soil contents, depending on if the drainage is proper.

  • Arum: Arrow arum relies on its seeds to do the reestablishment of the species. The arum seeds are held in capsules of fruit, which would rupture when soaked in water.

This helps the arum by allowing the seeds to have an easy transport, considering if a bird would kick a berry, all it needs is water, and before you know it, there might be a plant sprouting.

  • Bryony: Bryony carries a bryonin that is poisonous. They also have an extremely thick, white bulb that can easily store the seed of the plant without another organism coming through and easily destroying the plant’s seed.

This helps the bryony by keeping the plant itself safe from any predatory organisms that may try to destroy the plant, but the predator will either have troubles with getting to the seed and destroying it, or by the poisonous bryonin it carries.

  • Hemlock: Since hemlocks are trees, they need to be able to make it through winter. In fall, when the tree drops needles, the act prevents the cold, arid wind from evaporating and drying out the moisture of the tree. From here, the tree just needs to hold its moisture and survive the winds.

This helps the hemlock trees to keep them alive through winter by preventing the plant from drying out and potentially dying. Since the ground is frozen, the chance of getting water from frozen ground is nearly impossible, which is why this adaptation in trees is so important. The water is stored in its roots.

  • Aconite: Aconite carries deadly poison that once killed a gardener just by brushing him. He died of multiple organ failures. I will link the story down below in the sources area if you would like to check it out.

This helps the Aconite by allowing any predator that may just stroll by, to become weak and die through organ failure. I know this seems very harsh, but the plant is fighting for its life, like how we fight for ours.

  • Celandine: Celandine has orange sap that carries alkaloids that could be potentially poisonous.

This helps then celandine plant protect itself from any predatory animal in search to kill its plant. The predator will instead become weak of poison.

  • Corncockle: Corncockle also carries a poison, causing many problems actually. They were very common in European farm lands and were taking nutrients from crops. The population majorly decreased and is hardly ever seen in the wild anymore.

This helps the corncockle by protecting itself from predators. Now that they are no longer found in the wild, they still thrive on farmland, constantly being destroyed due to its capability to give the crops a bitter taste from its poison.

  • Cowslip: Cowslip is very commonly found in grasslands, which can be good and bad. The grasslands can allow an increase in the population of this plant. Here’s how:

This helps the cowslip by allowing the gusts of wild picking up throughout the land to carry seeds and help replant and grow the population.

  • Fool’s Parsley: Like many of these other plants, fool’s parsley is also poisonous due to alkaloids found throughout the entire plant, but don’t forget that since it’s a poisonous stem plant, it also carries a poison throughout its stem.

This helps the fool’s parsley from predators destroying the plants. Fool’s parsley can be highly poisonous in small amounts, and fatal in large amounts, so BE CAREFUL!

  • Henbane: Henbane also carries a poison consisting of stramonium and more alkaloids.

This helps out the henbane by injuring and potentially killing predators simply by allowing the predator to ingest its poison. The poison of henbane, like many other of these poisonous plants, can cause loss of muscular control, irregular heart beats, hallucination, coma, death, and much more.

  • Hedge Garlic: Hedge garlic is extremely invasive and once one plant is there, you’ll have and entire forest of them soon. They are not toxic but are very tough plants. The roots are well-grounded and can easily regrow the plant if needed.

This helps the hedge garlic in many situations. Lets say that someone is going through and cutting the plants at the base of the ground, the plant can grow right back since it still has its roots, all it needs is one root to grow back its plant.

  • Spurge: Spurge is an interesting plant with how it can adapt. It can sustain different soil types, but prefers sand due to the lack of other plants that can live within the arid and sandy area.

This helps the spurge because when the other plants die off, the spurge can take all of the nutrients left in the ground for itself and still thrive with 7 to 25 inches of rain annually, and when the temperatures are 50 to 100+ degrees Fahrenheit.

  • Traveler’s Joy: Traveler’s joy is a climbing plant which allows the capability for the plant to reach sun in a shady area. This can help the plant get its sunlight and its nutrients form the soil. The soil can also vary with this plant as well.

This helps the traveler’s joy by getting it the nutrients from the ground and the sunlight from the capability to climb. The soil differences that are safe can also help with the population growth to allow widespread population.

  • Tree Lupin: White lupin roots have the capability to change the way of their roots in case of a lack of phosphorous soils that they like.

This helps the plant to be able to survive without the extra nutrition they want, not need. The changing roots can help them find the nutrition to make up for the lack of phosphorous nutrients.

  • Wild Garlic: Wild garlic is very easily spread throughout farmland and grassland areas that are very fertile and nutritious. The plant is minorly toxic if consumed in large amounts.

This helps the wild garlic spread easily throughout the Midwest region of the United States of America due to the farmland and rich soil. This is great for the wild garlic, not for the farmers, especially since it is minorly toxic.

  • Wood Sorrel: Wood sorrel is a flower built to live in a forest where other plants can protect this flower. It is very weak, but has the capability to fold its leaflets down to prevent evaporation of moisture.

This helps the wood sorrel by preventing evaporation of the moisture it needs, especially when more sunlight is present, since its built to live in shade. This could potentially save the plant.

 

Sources:

I’m sorry that this post is so long. I realize that typing this is adding more to it, but I spend hours on this post, so please leave a like to show appreciation of what I’ve done.

Thank you for coming again for this post . I am now done with the safe and unsafe unit, and will now be going on with bringing rabbits outdoors and the details behind that subject. Leave a like so that I know that I’m doing this the way that you like and that this is all the style that you appreciate. Anyway, I will be talking to you in two days then, bye!

The Argente Creme Rabbit

To continue with the “Argente” rabbits, I would like to go over the Argente creme rabbit. I will be going over common personalities, characteristics, medical problems, and more!

The History Behind the Argente Creme Rabbit:

The Argente Creme breed doesn’t really have an origin besides the fact that it was mentioned in the French papers, was important to America, and was used as a different breed to try to breed for. At this time, breeding rabbits in the New York area was very popular and was common.

This particular breed was set aside to showing and meat. It was around the 1940’s that the breed was accepted by the American Rabbit Breeders Association.

Due to the breeds slow production, the Argente creme was on the “watch” list for a while, and is now on the “recovering” list. The breed’s population must have made a plunge after the meat of the rabbit was taken advantage of.

Common Personalities:

The Argente creme is know to be an extremely docile and sweet rabbit that is still very active and playful. They do great with older children, older couples, living in small houses, with first time owners, and is a great rabbit for singles. They will be quite active, but aren’t crazy and are known to be well-behaved.

Characteristics:

  • Body Shape: Very rounded and full shoulders.
  • Coloring: Orange, silver, fawn colors.
  • Ears: Medium sized.

Size:

Argente Creme rabbits are considered large breed rabbits. If you don’t know, the size possibilities are:

  • Dwarf
  • Small
  • Medium
  • Large
  • Giant

As for weight, the average Argente creme will weigh about 8 1/2 to 11 lbs. They can be quite stocky rabbits, so making sure they are getting the exercise they need is a must for any owner of this breed.

Common Medical Problems:

There are not any common medical problems specifically found in this breed.

Extra Care:

The only suggestion I would make is to insure that the rabbit is getting plenty of exercise because a rabbit this size can very easily become inactive and overweight.

Sources:

Thumbnail Image Link

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/creme-dargent-rabbit/

*The source I have been using for these breed posts says that this breed does well outside without any major temperature changes. This is very misleading as rabbits should never be kept outside. I don’t ever advise letting a rabbit live outside because of temperature, weather, predators, and more. *

Thank you for coming back once again. I would appreciate it if you would leave a like as that really helps me out. I would like to know if you have any suggestions of breeds that weren’t listed in my post called “The Breeds I Will Be Going Over w/ Details”. I would definitely appreciate it! Thank so much for all of your support and I will talk to you soon, bye!

The American Sable Rabbit

To finish off the “American” breeds, I would like to go over the American sable rabbit. If you haven’t been following along, I will be going over characteristics, history, common medical problems, personalities, and more!

History of the American Sable Rabbit:

The American Sables came along in the 20th century in California, where chinchilla colored rabbits were being bred to a bunch of different rabbit breeds. The breed produced became popular and was founded officially in 1929 and accepted as an actual breed in 1931.

Characteristics of the American Sable

  • Rounded head: Very defined
  • Upright ears: No sign of lopping
  • Soft, fine, but dense coat of fur
  • An all grey body with a tint of tan that fades out

Common Personalities of the American Sable:

  • Sweet
  • Active
  • Playful

American sables are very tame rabbits by nature and if given proper care and attention, this rabbit could easily become an amazing emotional support animal. American sables don’t have a temperament really and love spending time with others.

With American sables being so active and playful, it is very important to give many toys, give time for interaction, and make sure that the rabbit isn’t being bored out of its mind. Active rabbits need a lot of entertainment to stay healthy, just like every other rabbit out there. Breeds can vary the amount of willingness for exercise, but it is important that whether the rabbit enjoys the run and play time or not, that the exercise time is given.

General Size:

The general weight of an American sable rabbit is around 8 to 10 pounds. By nature, the males actually tend to be smaller and leaner than the females. This is quite surprising when you think about it since male species tend to weigh more, have more muscle, and look larger in general.

American sables are considered a medium rabbit. If you didn’t know, there are dwarf, small, medium, large, and giant sized rabbits, medium being the size of Oliver and Luna, being around eight inches long on average (with the rabbit in a loaf/standard position). Do keep in mind that stockiness can add to the factor of the sizing for a rabbit.

Common Medical Problems/Extra Care:

With the rabbit’s coats being so thick, weekly and daily grooming is necessary to prevent shedding/molting problems. If the rabbit ingests too much fur, the rabbit could die of starvation of the body thinking that it actually has nutritious food in its stomach, or of GI stasis and the resentment to eat.

There aren’t really any other specific medical problems to say that are directed towards American sables. All rabbits should be monitored for ear mites and overgrown teeth, and should be given appropriate toys and products in return, as mentioned in the article I read about the American sable breed, linked second.

Resources:

Link to Thumbnail

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/american-sable-rabbit/

 

Thank you for coming back once again for this post. I will be continuing the outdoors theme and then the rabbit breed sort of pattern, so please continue to come back at least every other day to make it for the new post. As always, continue to spread proper rabbit care and I will talk to you in two days, bye!

 

 

 

 

American Breed Rabbits

Today will be all about American rabbits. American rabbits are not quite as popular as they used to be, which I will explain later. Today, I will be going over their history, their characteristics, personalities, size, weight, popular health problems, and more!

Why Are They Called American Rabbits?

The American rabbits were originally called German blue Viennas, but that was changed due to World War I. The rabbits were used for their meat and fur during the war. Their name was changed because of the popularity of the meat and fur in America at that time.

What is the History Behind American Rabbits?

As I was just saying, in the 1940’s and 1950’s, the rabbits were used solemnly for their meat and fur. This was what the American soldiers of the war had used quite often for food, and for warmth and protection from the rabbit’s pelts.

The rabbits now are very scarce and are actually very rare. This is quite surprising considering that some soldiers’ lives depended on these animals, now, it’s hard to even find them.

Why Did Their Usage Change?

The use of the rabbits have obviously changed dramatically. These rabbits aren’t actually that commonly found in America anymore. When they are around, they are known as house pets now, like rabbits should be. This means that the rabbit meat industry won’t be able to take these rabbits for meat, changing what they are to the people and environment around the animal.

This also ties in with how these rabbits have also turned into show rabbits, and are no longer being used for their gorgeous pelts, instead, their pelts can be shown off in a fair or festival.

What Characteristics Do They have?

American rabbits typically have:

  • Semi-arch body
  •  “Blue” and white fur
    • White fur: red eyes
    • Blue fur: typical colored eye options
  • Soft pelts
  • Large breed

What Are Their Common Personalities?

Most, if not all American rabbits are very docile and friendly. From articles that I have read, even wild American rabbits would still be very docile. This has definitely traced over to the domestic rabbits, leaving them as a very good rabbit for families who know and use proper care.

How Heavy and Large Can They Get?

About 8.82 lbs. to 12.13 lbs, or 4 to 5.5 kg. These rabbits are considered as a large rabbit breed, meaning that this breed is naturally larger in size. Their typical size can’t be directly spared due to the fact that rabbits are classified as dwarfs, smalls, mediums, larges, or giants.

What Are Common Health Problems With American Rabbits?

American rabbits do not have any specific health problems that will run in their breed’s genes. If they are properly taken care of, there isn’t really a risk of the rabbit getting sick out of nowhere.

Thank you for coming back again. My next post, in two days, will be the start of the outdoor activities with rabbits. If you would like to hear more about that, make sure to stick around. I will be going over the breeds I have listed in alphabetical order, so make sure to continue to stick around for that as well.

My Resources I Used:

Link to Thumbnail Image

https://www.slowfoodusa.org/ark-item/the-american-rabbit

https://www.roysfarm.com/american-rabbit/

 

The Breeds I Will be Going Over/Details

Since I would really like to allow you to get to know all of the breeds well, even before seeing an example, I will be going over the list of rabbit breeds I will be describing and going through during the next couple of months. I will be spreading it all out, so one post I’ll do on an outdoors theme, the other will be on the specific rabbit breed for that post.

The List of Rabbit Breeds I’m Going to Go Through:

  • Lionhead
  • Flemish Giant
  • Continental Giant
  • Dutch
  • English Lop
  • French Lop
  • Holland Lop
  • Mini Rex
  • Rex
  • Netherland Dwarf
  • Polish
  • American
  • American Fuzzy Lop
  • American Sable
  • Argente Brun
  • Argente Crème
  • Argente de Champagne
  • Belgian Hare
  • Beveren
  • Blanc de Hotot
  • Britannia Petite
  • Californian
  • Checkered Giant
  • Chinchilla (Standard)
  • Chinchilla (American)
  • Chinchilla (Giant)
  • Cinnamon
  • Dwarf Hotot
  • Dwarf Lop (Mini Lop in USA)
  • English Angora
  • English Spot
  • Florida White
  • French Angora
  • Giant Angora
  • Giant Papillon
  • Harlequin
  • Havana
  • Himalayan
  • Jersey Wooly
  • Lilac
  • New Zealand
  • Palomino
  • Rhinelander
  • Satin
  • Satin Angora
  • Silver
  • Silver Fox
  • Silver Marten
  • Tan
  • Thrianta
  • Velveteen Lop

 

What I Will Be Going Over:

  • Lifespan
  • Size/Weight
  • Characteristics
  • Adaptations
  • Personalities (in general)
  • An Overview
  • Common problems
  • Extra Facts and Maintenance

 

Thank you for coming back for this post. I just wanted to reach out to you to prepare you for what I’m going to be going over. I’m so excited to start going over the breeds and all of the outdoor activities that you can do with your rabbit, or your rabbit to come. I will still be posting every other day, It’s just that every other post will be on one subject, the next post will be on the other. As always, continue to spread proper rabbit care and I will talk to you soon, bye!