The Britannica Petite Rabbit Breed

The Britannica Petite rabbit is a unique rabbit in many ways. Through its size, characteristics, history, and more, these rabbits are great, so make sure to check out what they are all about, right here, right now!

History of the Britannica Petite Rabbit:

The Britannica Petite came about in the early 1800’s from the Polish rabbit, known in England. This was around a time when showing rabbits was becoming popular. It wasn’t until the 1900’s that the Polish rabbit was transported to America. The Polish rabbits were considered “dubbed Polish”.

Meanwhile, rabbit owners in England were working on proper stances for the Polish rabbits for the shows that were starting to become popular. The rabbits became so accustomed to standing tall that when these rabbits were bred, they ended up with baby bunnies with amazingly refined bone structure.

The British Council still considers the Britannica Petite rabbit a Polish rabbit, but the American Rabbit Breeder’s Association already recognized a different rabbit breed to be considered a Polish.

Common Characteristics:

The Britannica Petite has a quarter circle arch in its back, if viewed from a side perspective. The rabbit has a wedge-shaped head and small ears as well. The ears also stick straight up.

There are many colors for this breed, but here are the majority of them, if not all of them: Red-eyed-white, blue-eyed-white, broken (white with spots of other colors), black, chestnut aguoti, black otter, and sable.

Common Personalities:

This breed of rabbit is very popularly known as a very energetic and curious rabbit. Even though this rabbit is very energetic, it also has a very sweet side. They love spending time with their owners, or other rabbits, and are very affectionate.

Sizing/Weight:

Since this rabbit is so incredibly tiny, this rabbit is a dwarf. Even though it may not look like it in the picture, this rabbit is definitely a dwarf, and the sizing will make even more sense after you know how tiny it is weight-wise.

This rabbit is definitely a dwarf on weight standards. This rabbit averages anywhere from 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. That is such a tiny rabbit, and that weight is for full grown Britannica Petites.

Common Medical Problems:

This rabbit breed isn’t known for any illnesses commonly found in only it’s family, but making sure that at home check-ups are happening can be very important.

Extra Care:

Even though this rabbit has soft, short, but silky fur, they tend to shed more than just the twice-a-year large sheds, which does mean that keeping up on grooming is extremely important.

Since this rabbit is so energetic and curious, making sure that they get time out of their pen every day is important. Allowing any rabbit to have time to explore is important, but for an extremely adventurous rabbit like this, it really is beneficial. This rabbit needs the space of a medium sized rabbit at least, all because of its energy.

Works Cited:

“Britannia Petite Rabbit Breed Information and Pictures.” PetGuide, 20 Oct. 2017,                        www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/britannia-petite-rabbit/

 

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Picture

 

Thank you so much for coming back for today’s post. Please share this with your family and friends to show off how amazingly cute rabbits can be, and really show how amazing they are as animals. Come back every other day for a new post, but until then, share proper rabbit care, and I’ll talk to you soon, bye!

Making Tree Branch Sticks Safe For Rabbits

Of all of the forage out there, I would like to go on one little topic, twigs. Twigs are amazing chew toys for rabbits, guinea pigs, hamsters, etc; but how do you prepare them to ensure that they really are safe? To answer that question, I will be going over 3 ways on how to ensure that those twigs you want to give your rabbit are safe.

Option 1: Vinegar:

This, in my opinion, is the easiest option out there to sanitize your rabbit’s twigs, but nobody seems to know it. When you think about it, 50/50 is water and vinegar, and is a disinfectant, and cleaner, so getting rid of the water just makes it stronger. The same goes with twigs, the bacteria will be killed, along with any bugs or other organisms.

The steps to this process are so easy. First, you go out and collect your twigs from a tree that is free of pesticides and isn’t dead. Next, bring the twigs in, spray them with white vinegar, and allow them to air dry, or wipe them off.

This option is great for summer when you really don’t want to turn on the oven and make the house any more hot than it already is, or you’re just too lazy to do a little extra work. I would recommend wiping off the vinegar when using this option, especially if these twigs are going to a picky bunny, they might not like the vinegar taste.

Option 2: Baking:

The next and most beneficial option would be baking the twigs for long enough to kill the bacteria and bugs in the heat of an oven. This is a great option to ensure that all of the bacteria is dead, but some people are more on the conservative side for energy, and I respect that. If you conserve energy, this may not be the best option for you.

To kill bacteria through baking, you will need your sticks from a pesticide free tree that isn’t dead, and a baking sheet to place the twigs on. First, preheat your oven to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, or 120 degree Celsius. From there, place the baking sheet with the twigs in the oven and allow them to bake for 30 minutes. This will leave the twigs bacteria free, and crispy as well.

The reason I say that this is the most beneficial way to kill bacteria on twigs, is because of the heat. Heat is probably the best way to kill off bacteria, and this method does just that, and it gets the job done without much effort.

Option 3: Washing:

The last option I will be reviewing today will be washing the twigs. This is an option for everyone, and is great for younger rabbit owners. By washing the twigs, you will be killing any bugs from the water, and also killing bacteria through scrubbing harshly.

To wash your twigs, you will want to have your twigs already, and a sponge of some sort. For this process, all you have to do is take the sponge and scrub vigorously at the stick with hot water running over it. The hot water can kill bacteria as well. Allow the sticks to air dry, if not, dry them of with a towel.

Do NOT use soap because soap should never be ingested by any organism. By washing the sticks with soap, you are putting your rabbit at a large risk of sickness and death through poisoning. I’m sorry if I broke it to you, but soap isn’t food for us, so it isn’t food for your pets either.

Why is This Step Important?

The step of disinfecting the sticks is so incredibly important for your rabbit’s health. Giving a rabbit a stick to chew and eat that just so happens to have bugs and bacteria nesting on it just sounds bad, and it really is terrible.

Your rabbit could end up with countless diseases, mites, worms, or possibly flystrike if there are flies coming in with the sticks. Flystrike would be an extremely rare scenario if you are properly grooming your rabbit, but it could happen at any time.

This really goes to show that every little detail does count and could save plenty of money, time, and sorrow. I realize that the scenarios I put out are quite serious, but some of them could easily become an issue without this step, so please, disinfect your rabbit’s sticks and twigs.

 

Works Cited:

Bam, et al. “How to Prepare Sticks/Twigs?” How to Prepare Sticks/Twigs? –                                       BinkyBunny.com – House Rabbit Information Forum – BinkyBunny.com –                                 BINKYBUNNY FORUMS – DIET & CARE, 2006,                                                                                   www.binkybunny.com/FORUM/tabid/54/aft/128536/Default.aspx.

Suzuki, David. “Does Vinegar Kill Germs?” David Suzuki Foundation, 2019,                                      davidsuzuki.org/queen-of-green/does-vinegar-kill-germs/

 

Thank you for coming back again for this post. I appreciate every single one of you, and would really appreciate it if you would leave a like to start July strong. By leaving a like, I will know if you would like me to do a 4th of July post, but only if that thumbs up is there! Please continue to come back every other day, and I will talk to you soon, bye!

The Blanc de Hotot Rabbit Breed

There are so many rabbit breeds, so going over yet another one is a great opportunity for anyone looking for the right breed for them. Because of that, I will be going over the Blanc de Hotot rabbit breed for anyone looking for the right breed for them.

The History of the Blanc de Hotot Rabbit:

The credit of the establishment of this breed actually goes to one individual, this person being Eugenie Bernhard, the 2nd woman to establish a rabbit breed. This breed happened to develop in Hotot-de-Auge, Normandy. This breed was known for its meat and fur, being important in 1902, when this breed was first recognized.

To obtain this breed, a Papillon and White Vienna were bred, then after that, a White Flemish Giant. This breed-to-be-developed was worked on for 20 years. It took over 500 breed crossings until the breed was to the standards, the year being 1920 that this breed was shown in the Exposition international d’Aviculture, which was located in Paris.

It wasn’t until October of 1922 that the French recognized this breed, and finally were shipped to the USA around this time, but there is a twist. They didn’t last long in the US, and were shipped to Switzerland. Almost all of the Blanc de Hotot rabbits died that existed in Europe due to World War II. It wasn’t until 1978, that a man from Texas recognized the problem and put this breed on the endangered list. The breed was official in 1979, but was known globally to be endangered.

Common Characteristics of the Blanc de Hotot:

The Blanc de Hotot rabbit has short and fluffy fur. This rabbit is known as the cute and fluffy bunny that is all white besides the black “eyeliner” that is accentuated from its bright fur. There is actually a standard saying that the “eyeliner” can’t be more an eighth of an inch thick, otherwise the rabbit isn’t proper, but hey, they’re still cute.

The rabbit’s ears are medium sized with the tail being extremely small, only because the fur covers the majority of the tail. Even though this rabbit looks very small in pictures, you would be shocked at their sizing, which I will be going over in a bit.

Common Personalities of the Blanc de Hotot:

This rabbit is extremely well known to be an amazingly sweet and docile rabbit. Not to forget, this rabbit is also extremely active, which is great since a voluntarily active rabbit is great for beginning rabbit owners, especially for those confused of how to get the rabbit’s exercise in without too much time being spent.

Sizing and Weight:

This rabbit, believe it or not, is a large sized rabbit, this is insane to me. In all of the pictures that could possibly be found, this rabbit breed always looks so tiny, but they really aren’t.

Blanc de Hotot rabbits weigh an average of 8 to 11 lbs. as a healthy weight. This being said, making sure this weight is being kept is important, like in all animals.

Common Medical Problems:

This rabbit doesn’t have a common illness, but through my research, I have found that they, like all other rabbits, are susceptible to overgrown teeth. Overgrown teeth can be shown by lack of athleticism/activity and eating problems. If you think your rabbit have overgrown teeth, go to your vet immediately to have a treatment of shaving the teeth down and a prescription if needed.

Extra Care:

This breed doesn’t have any extra care needed.

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Picture

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/blanc-de-hotot-rabbit/

 

 

 

Why is Forage Important?

Foraging is important to many rabbit owners and their little friends, but not all rabbit lovers, or any person out there, will know why foraging really is important. Due to this, I will be going over all of the ways that forage is important for you, and your rabbit(s).

How Can Foraging Benefit Your Rabbit?

Foraging can benefit your rabbit in 4 different ways, these ways being entertainment, nutrition, enrichment, and variety.

Entertainment:

Forage is an amazing source of entertainment for rabbits, they love it. Entertaining rabbits can’t always be an easy task, but grasses can really keep your rabbit occupied for a long time. Simple things found outside can give your rabbit something to gnaw on to keep them distracted for a while.

Nutrition:

There are many sources of food for your rabbit outside that isn’t accessible from inside. That being said, getting that food for your rabbit is amazing for their well being. There are so many amazing plants outside that have so much more nutrition than anyone could expect, dandelions are a great example. They have great nutrition in their leaves for salad, and their flowers have natural sugars that are still healthy in a form of a treat, or a salad add-on.

Enrichment:

As for enrichment, what part of forage isn’t enrichment? Your rabbit is now given the access to different treats, foods, and toys that they were kept away from for their entire life, and now they get the opportunity to experience this all. Enrichment is all about occupation and experiment, forage covers both.

Variety:

Forage is so amazing for giving a rabbit a little variety in its life. Some rabbits will only get store bought toys and the food that they need, but giving them more than just what they need can really improve the rabbit’s appetite and mood. Variety is found everywhere in forage with food, treats, and toys. Can’t forget that it’s all natural too!

How Can Foraging Benefit You?

Believe it or not, foraging can benefit you in many ways, even if you can’t realize it. Some of the ways that foraging could and would benefit you includes budget, piece of mind, and nutrition.

Budget:

Whether you only forage for one item, or for everything in your rabbit’s diet, the amount of money spent on your rabbit’s needs will decrease by a very slight amount, or a very large amount, or you may never have to go to the pet store again, you may never know.

Piece of Mind:

There is that piece of mind when you forage, it’s because you know what’s going into your body, or your rabbit’s body. You know whether it’s safe, unsafe, or wild, everything you put there, you know it’s in there… well, hopefully.

Nutrition:

The nutrition is a great variable in this all if you happen to forage for yourself. Nutrition is a very large factor in many decisions with food, whether it’s for your rabbit, or yourself, it should always be incorporated within the subject. Lucky you, forage can be extremely nutritious and can give many vitamins and minerals that may not have been all that accessible before.

Thank you for coming back again for this post. It does tie in with my last foraging post I did, so make sure to check that out. As I have been, I will be going over breeds one day, then foraging/outdoor activities the next, considering that I post every other day. If you enjoyed this post, give a thumbs up and make sure to tune in 2 days from now for my next post.

The Beveren Breed Rabbit

Today, I will be going over the Beveren breed rabbit. As I have been doing, I will be going over the common characteristics, common personalities, common medical problems, and more!

The History of the Beveren Breed Rabbit:

There is a debate of whether this breed was from England or Belgium. Those on the side of Belgium say that the rabbit was transported around the late 1890’s to Britain, but then put in the spotlight for shows around 1905.

The breed was then most popular for the time in 1918, when the Beveren Club was established. In 1919, the breed was transported to America and accepted into the American Rabbit Breeders Association as an official breed.

Characteristics of the Beveren Breed:

The Beveren breed rabbit has a medium sized torso with a nice, rounded face. The ears are very large in the aspect of length, and reach up to 5 inches long at the age of adulthood. This rabbit has a large body overall.

Beveren rabbits have very sleek and glossy fur. There are three different colors that are accepted through the ARBA. These colors are:

  • Solid Blue
  • Solid Black
  • Blue-Eyed White

There are many more colors of this breed, but the three about are the official and accepted colors for this rabbit.

Common Personalities of the Beveren Breed:

These rabbits are known to be quite intelligent, so very carefully planning locations, and bunny-proofing will be extremely important. These rabbits are also very curious and are docile. They do better with older children than younger children for any families, but will still do great with adults.

Size and Weight:

The Beveren breed rabbit is large-sized because of weight and overall size. The rabbit itself is quite large compared to many rabbit breeds. The different size options are dwarf, small, medium, large, and giant, so it on the bigger side of rabbit breeds.

The average, healthy weight of a Beveren breed rabbit is anywhere from 8 to 12 lbs. This really goes to show that they are very large, and can weigh quite a lot for their body size.

Common Medical Problems:

Since this is a larger rabbit, it is so important to make sure that proper grooming around its bottom is done. This way, any possible buildup of fur won’t clump up to allow droppings to stick, to then cause flystrike. I find that it’s much easier for smaller rabbits to groom their bottom, so giving this rabbit the grooming and attention-to-detail is very important.

Extra Care:

This breed specifically doesn’t have any extra care, but as a large rabbit, like all of the other large breeds, I would be very cautious over weight gain and loss. The correct diet, encloser, interaction, and exercise can allow this rabbit to live for much longer than expected.

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Image

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/beveren-rabbit/

 

Thank you for coming back once again for this post. I will be going over more and more information every other day, so continue to come back then. Until then, please feel free to visit my last post and the others suggested within that information. I’m so glad to have you and will talk to you soon, bye!

What’s the Whole Point of Foraging?

Why do people even forage for their rabbits? Is there any point? I will be going over all of the details of why people forage and why, so feel free to stick around to read.

Is There A Point to Foraging?

There are so many points to foraging that aren’t recognized. Foraging does have a point and can really help you and your rabbit out in many ways.

The whole point of foraging is to have an easy access to your rabbit’s food nearby, and for you, your own provider, to know what is in it. Obviously, you know whether there would be any pesticides if it’s on your land. This is why I feel it’s nice to forage, but some people could have a different opinion.

For anyone who lives in the country or in a more private area, foraging will be amazing for you, but what about someone who lives in a city? Sadly, when you live in a city, you won’t be able to forage anywhere nearby. To forage, you will want to consider the following:

  1. Going to a relatives house to forage where they have pesticide, gas, and bug free areas, this is very often found near farmlands or grasslands.
  2. Having a family member or friend forage from an area that is safe around them, that way you don’t have to do it, and your still getting the forage you would like.
  3. Grow a forage area near you. Whether this is in your house, or not, grow a mini garden of grass, herbs, and common wild plants that are safe for your rabbit.

Make sure that before you go for any forage option, whether you do one of the three above, or go foraging on your land, you MUST know what your rabbit can and can’t have for forage. There are so many reasons including your rabbit’s health, safety, and your rabbit’s life, along with yours. There are plants that can kill a human, just by brushing past it, so please, go through my posts and take note, or just print the posts off. Here are the posts I recommend you look through before foraging:

Why Do Rabbit Owners Forage For Their Rabbits?

Rabbits are needy animals, we can easily admit it, so making it easier on ourselves to take care of them is always nice. Most rabbit owners forage for their rabbits as a treat, but others may do it for a healthier option or even more! Below are ways that foraging can really benefit you, that you may not of thought of.

The Ways Forage Can Benefit You and Your Rabbit:

  1. It’s much healthier than store-bought food. Store-bought food can have many chemicals in them, causing uncertainty in many rabbit owners. The best option then would be going for all organic food, but there are many problems with this as well. Many people don’t have access to organic food, some stores don’t carry it consistently, but for some, they can’t financially afford it from a sudden situation. This is my reasoning behind it, along with my belief.
  2. You know what’s going into the rabbit’s body. Some packaging, which is also bad for the environment, isn’t very realistic. Many packages will say all of these great things, but they can also hide many substances as well. On the front of a package, you’re not going to find “sprayed with a lot of chemicals” on the front, it’s not realistic, because all the company wants is a sale. With forage, you don’t have to worry, you know what’s going into it.
  3. It saves so much money! If you were to switch your rabbit’s diet entirely onto forage, you could save up to $1,000 dollars or more on food, toys, and treats. Assuming you get veggies every week, and that they cost around $10 to $20, for 52 weeks, that’s anywhere from $520 to $1,040 just on veggies! On hay, you would have to base it on your provider, and for treats and toys, you really could save around $30 or more dollars if you switched entirely. Remember, this is in one year!

With What I Said…

To entirely switch, you would need a lot of grasses that are safe for rabbit, a large variety of wild veggies, or a garden, which could also save you tremendous amount of money, and you would also need the time to go out, forage, and prep it to be safe for your rabbit(s). You would also have to slowly switch due to sensitive stomachs, which all rabbits have.  Foraging is an amazing thing, and one day, I hope to rely on foraging instead of a store.

I get that many people won’t entirely switch, but foraging for many aspects of your rabbit’s daily needs can really give a piece of mind. I would at least encourage you to try it once, if you don’t like it, you don’t have to continue, it’s an option.

Access to Thumbnail Picture: Link (All  credit goes to Alamy stock photos)

Thank you for coming again for this post. I encourage you to go back to those posts I suggested and take some notes, or print them off as I had said before. I really wanted to make sure that people really knew the benefits and the great/bad in foraging. It really is a nice thing for rabbit owners, and I would encourage foraging for other animals, maybe even yourself!

The Belgian Hare Breed Rabbit

Today, to go over a single breed rabbit. (there aren’t multiple related like the Argente rabbits) I would like to go over the Belgian Hare. As always, I will be going over the history, common characteristics, common medical problems, and more.

The History Behind the Belgian Hare Rabbit:

The Belgian Hare originated from Belgium, not very surprising, and they blew up to be awesome rabbits to breed. They were mainly known to be meat rabbits due to their “hearty meat”. It was already 1873 by the time that this breed was transported to England.

The breed was then transported to America in 1877, and was accepted into the National Belgian Hare Club, which was formed in 1897. The breed’s name was constantly being changed, but in 1972, the Belgian Hare breeders came together as a group and discussed. Not long after that, the breed was called the Belgian Hare.

Common Characteristics:

The Belgian Hare will usually have brownish-grey fur, a very curved back, and a thin looking structure. They are quite sturdy rabbits, despite their small stature. The rabbit’s coat is also very thin and doesn’t need any maintenance besides occasional run throughs.

Common Personalities:

This breed is very known to be sweet, but can be extremely protective from being known for being nervous. These rabbits are very active as well, so making sure that you are taking time to bond with this rabbit is very important, since it is quite skittish.

Size/Weight:

Belgian Hares are large sized rabbits and can really show it. They are very tall rabbits with long legs as well. Their backs arch tremendous amounts and are quite skinny, even though they can weigh quite a bit.

Belgian Hares will average a healthy 6 to 9 pounds of weight. Considering their tall stature, that isn’t much. If they were stockier, they would be a heady breed of rabbit.

Common Medical Problems:

The site says that this rabbit is susceptible to flystrike and mites from being outdoors since they are known to be “outdoor rabbits”, but no rabbit should ever be kept outdoors. Make sure that this rabbit is always kept indoors for general housing, like any other rabbit, especially since rabbits get spooked so easily, this breed in particular.

This rabbit has very short fur and should be monitored for any sort of skin irritations. The skin is very exposed compared to most rabbits, and for this breed in particular, I feel that it could show many signs needed to possibly save its life someday.

Even though that came from my mind and not from research, honestly, it’s common sense. This rabbit could also be more sensitive to cold, and that could also dry out its skin. I feel that your rabbit’s skin is like yours, it’s dry if hydration isn’t proper, remember that.

Extra Care:

The rabbit does have a little bit of extra care that I would like to recommend for anyone with this rabbit, or getting this rabbit. I would recommend bonding sessions with just you and the rabbit at least once a day. Since this rabbit is so skittish, you will want to build the trust in order to do more with your rabbit and give it a happy and very healthy life.

Sources:

Thumbnail Picture Link

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/belgian-hare/

 

Thank you for the continuous support that has been given. I will be posting like I have been, so come back in 2 days for a new post. In the mean time, share proper rabbit care and I will talk to you soon, bye!

What I Like to Forage and Safety Tips/Details

To start a new little chapter into the foraging unit, I would like to go over the forage I get for my rabbits. I will be going over what I commonly forage, some details, and the rabbits’ favorites.

What I Like to Forage:

  • Grasses
  • Clover
  • Dandelion greens and flowers
  • Willow sticks/leaves
  • Apple sticks

A Few Details With This Forage:

Like all forage, it must be free of the following:

  1. Bugs
  2. Pesticides
  3. Gasoline
  4. Viruses

So in other words, make sure that there aren’t any bugs living in the forage, don’t give any forage to your rabbit(s) that could have or was sprayed and/or treated with pesticides, don’t give your rabbit forage in contact with or near contact with gasoline, and don’t give your rabbit any forage from a plant that could have died from a virus.

Bugs:

Bugs must be removed and really shouldn’t be in contact with the forage. Bugs can spread throughout the rabbit’s area and cause the following problems:

  • Invasion of food
  • Mites, ticks, fleas, and flies living on your rabbit
  • Flystrike
  • And many more scenarios

Pesticides:

Pesticides are poisonous to all animals if they are ingested, trust me, eating grass from your lawn with pesticides on it will make you sick, I tested it a long time ago. Here are some examples of forage that would most likely be sprayed with pesticides:

  • Trees (for the sticks)
  • Your lawn (for pretty much everything else on the list
  • Sometimes gardens
  • Your entire property (most likely)

Gasoline:

Gasoline is so majorly dangerous and should always be avoided for foraging purposes. Here are some ways that gasoline could be affecting the forage you may go for:

  • Lawns from lawnmowers
  • Around roads from cars
  • Around your house and property from weed wackers
  • Any way that gasoline is possibly touching the forage, it isn’t safe

Viruses:

Viruses are very commonly a problem with trees if they start to die from a virus and you want to collect so sticks, do NOT collect from that tree. Any dead tree from a virus can cause your rabbit to get stick, and there are probably bugs in there too if it’s dead, so just leave dead trees.

My Rabbits’ Favorites For Forage:

  1. Dandelion flowers, they like the greens more for salads
  2. Clover as a treat
  3. Apple and willow sticks for chew toys
  4. Willow leaves as low sugar treats
  5. Grasses for a hay topper

 

Thank you so much for all of the support and love that has been given to this post, my entire channel, and the community of rabbit owners and rabbit lovers. If you would, please check out my post on unsafe forage with their characteristics and details from four days ago. I say this because anyone who will be foraging, one interpretation could kill your rabbit, and I don’t want that to happen. There is so much information in that post that I will warn you to spare about 10 minutes to read through it, and an extra 5 minutes to interpret it all. Anyway, I will talk to you in two days for a new breed post, bye!

The Argente de Champagne Rabbit

To end with the “Argente” breeds, I will be going over the Argente de Champagne rabbit. As always, I will be going over common characteristics, personalities, medical problems, extra care, and more!

The History of the Argente de Champagne Rabbit:

The Argente de Champagne rabbit originated from Champagne, France. The thing is, the breed could have already been developed, but was recognized in Champagne, France. In France, they were known as the French Silvers.

Large quantities were then shipped to England, and were named the Argente de Champagne breed rabbit. But, even before this happened, America was sent many of these rabbits in 1912, the shipping to England wasn’t until 1920.

The breed then was accepted into the hands of the American Rabbit Breeder’s Association from anywhere between 1955 and 1959. Except, there was a twist. The Americans decided that the “e” in the end of Argente should be removed, which leaves many confused whether the breed is Champagne d’Argent or Argente de Champagne, it depends where your source is located. From where I am, I should technically be calling it the Champagne d’Argent, but I don’t see much of a worry since with either name, the breed is still the same.

Common Characteristics:

  • 0-6 months old:
    • Undeveloped coat of fur
    • All black
  • 6-8 months old
    • Coat developed
      • Silver
      • Thick and well maintained coat
      • Darker ears and nose (black)

Common Personalities:

Champagnes are known to be extremely affectionate, energetic, and quite curious. Due to this rabbit being extremely sweet and compassionate, they do great with first time owners. They are very loving on anyone and love to play.

Size:

Weight: The average Champagne is about 9-12 pounds. Considering the breed is so energetic, keeping the rabbit very fit and healthy shouldn’t be hard, as long as the rabbit has proper nutrition and is given all rabbit-proofed and rabbit-safe products.

Sizing: The Champagne is a large breed rabbit, which can be guessed by the weight. As such a large standing rabbit, making sure the cage is big enough is important, but if you can, I would suggest free roaming a rabbit of this breed, or any rabbit. The rabbit could really love the space and exercise capabilities.

Common Medical Problems:

Without proper care, this rabbit could very easily die from fly strike. Fly strike is a sickness commonly caused in rabbits with thick fur. When droppings attach to the fur, it will attract different flies and will cause the fly to lay eggs in the rabbits fur since it is so thick. The flies’ eggs will then hatch to be maggots, the maggots then going and eating the flesh of the rabbit with the potential to kill the rabbit within 24 hours.

Besides the fly strike, these rabbits should have at-home check-ups every week like any other rabbit to check for mites, infections, or any unusual behaviors.

Extra Care:

Just as a little side note for this breed, they are extremely social, so make sure to give plenty of extra attention to allow the rabbit to be a very respectful and loyal rabbit once it is full-grown. This should be the way with any rabbit, but I would like to mention it in this post since this rabbit can be so curious, which can turn to cautious very easily.

 

Sources:

Link to Thumbnail Picture

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/champagne-dargent-rabbit/

https://rabbitwelfare.co.uk/rabbit-health/flystrike/

 

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Characteristics and Adaptations of Unsafe Forage for Rabbits

To finish off with unsafe forage, I would like to go over the characteristics and adaptations (if there are any for certain plants) of these different options. Please note that you should always look up what these plants look like, but my description is here to help in case you think you see a certain plant, you could check the description to match it to the plant.

I would suggest using this list as a source for if you were to go out and forage, that you would have it with you, along with pictures of all of the unsafe forage options. This way, you can insure that you will not giving any unsafe forage to your rabbit(s), or even touching anything poisonous.

Characteristics:

  • Foxgloves: Foxgloves are tall stemmed plants with bell shaped flowers. The flowers are located all throughout the stem and are a purple color, going darker on the more inside area of the flower, and going lighter on the outermost area of the flower.
  • Poppy: An average poppy will have red petals and a black, rounded stigma, similar to the stigma shape of a daisy. It has very small leaves that look very similar to what hemlock needle clusters would be.
  • Ivy: Ivies have very pointed leaves that are dark green. There are usually three main points on each leaf and are connected by a vine-like stem. This stem is very flexible and thin.
  • Buttercups: Buttercups are small, yellow flowers that are very similar to what a daisy would look like if it had an insanely tiny stigma and the petals were bright yellow and much more round. The petals are also much smaller than daisy petals.
  • Bluebells: Bluebells are very small, bell-like flowers that are extremely similar to what foxgloves look like. They are pretty much foxgloves with blue flowers. They have the bell-shape, blue flowers, long and tall stem, and the flowers that sprout throughout the entire stem.
  • Ragwort: Ragwort, or stinking willie, is a flower with yellow, pointed petals. The stem is quite tall and the leaves are very long, wide, and tend the stand partially upright. The leaves are also jagged-edged and dark green.
  • Arum: Arums are actually lilies that have an arrowhead-shaped flower. The stem is not all that tall and the leaves are a dull green and club-shaped. The flower itself is usually purple or white from what I have found.
  • Bryony: Bryony, or bryonia, is a plant that will commonly produce small, red berries and tiny, yellow flowers. The leaves are very overtaking and are a medium green color that are club-like.
  • Hemlock: Hemlocks are very broad and dark green trees that look like a lumpy pine tree. Their needles are grouped in a duck-foot formation and will grow buds on the end to start another formation. The needles are much shorter than pine needles and they are also all separate in a way.
  • Aconite: Aconite is also known as the “Devil’s Helmet” or “Wolf’s Bane” due the deadly poison it carries. Aconite is a purple flower with scooped petals and long, tall stems.
  • Celandine: There are two types of celandines, the lesser celandine, and the greater celandine. Either way, the flowers are both yellow. Lesser celandines have pointed petals, when greater celandines have rounded petals. The leaves are medium green and slightly jagged. The lesser celandine belongs to the buttercup family and the greater celandine belongs to the poppy family.
  • Corncockle: Corncockles are commonly found to be a pink-like purple shade and have slender stems with dark, pointed leaves that are also long and slender.
  • Cowslip: Cowslips have very tall stems with multiple flowers shooting out of the top of the stem. the petals are yellow and small, the flower itself being bell-shaped.
  • Fool’s Parsley: Fool’s parsley is a flower with very small and white flowers that are grouped together at the peak of the tall and slender stem. The leaves are flat and look like mini hemlock needle clusters. The leaves are not needles though, they are an actual leaf, just in the duck-foot formation.
  • Henbane: Henbane is also known as “Nightshade” due to its poisonous factors. The flower is bell-shaped and the center of the flower is a dark purple, the outermost area of the flower being a light yellow color. The flowers are sometimes found on one large stem in a row. The leaves are slightly pointed, look minorly fuzzy, and are very similar to what some tree leaves could look like.
  • Hedge Garlic: Hedge garlic, or garlic mustard, is a very green plant with jagged, club-shaped leaves that make up the majority of the plant. There are also tiny, white flowers that cluster at the top of a stem that shoots out of the center of the leaves. The leaves also tend to make the plant look as though it has its own mini bush.
  • Spurge: Spurge is a very wide and bushy plant that is commonly found as a weed, and is known to grow in any little crack, but turn into this widespread plant. When the plant has enough room, it will turn into a bush and has the capability to produce yellow flowers at the peak of each bushy stem.
  • Traveler’s Joy: Traveler’s joy, or “Old Man’s Beard”, is a white flower with petals in capability to grow extremely long to the point that it looks like a beard. The leaves are a medium green and are very round at the base and come to a point.
  • Tree Lupine: Tree lupine is a large bush that will produce yellow or white flowers at the peak of each point on a stem. The flowers are very small and like to grown around the entire end of the stem, creating a cattail look, except with flowers. The bush is a medium green and is quite rounded.
  • Wild Garlic: Wild Garlic, or “Ramsons”, are white flowers with rounded leaves at the base, and pointed at the peak. The leaves are quite long though. The flowers are very small and the petals have a pointed look. The leaves and flowers can be pulled from the ground to be used as a food source for humans, though you do have to be very careful. Always do extra research before eating wild plants, they may have certain parts of the plant that are poisonous.
  • Wood Sorrel: Wood sorrel is clover with little, white or yellow flowers that will sprout from the base of the clover. The only difference between this clover-looking-plant and actual clover is that this plant’s clover is connected with a vine. The vine is extraordinarily thin and grows the flowers from the base of the vines.

 

Adaptations and How They Help:

  • Foxgloves: Foxgloves carry an adaptation to soil and to nectar contents. They have an extremely high nectar content, attracting bees, butterflies, and humming birds. I would also like to note that part of foxglove plants are fatal to humans and animals, so don’t go and eat anything that you aren’t sure of.

This helps the foxglove by allowing the organisms that are attracted to the nectar to come and gather that nectar, and in turn, the organism has pollen stuck on its body, and by that, pollinating the plant.

  • Poppy: Arctic poppies are one of the most strong flowers, considering it is one of the northernmost growing plants that you will find. The flower’s structure is very tough, besides the petals. The flower is able to follow the sun, which attracts bugs.

This helps the poppies by allowing the bugs to come through their area and pollinate their plants. This is very important as northernmost areas don’t tend to have many pollinators, meaning that everyone of the pollinators have to count.

  • Ivy: Ivy is very commonly found in the more shady areas of a forest, but they are able to grow up trees to reach the sunlight easier.

This helps the ivy by allowing the photosynthesis to properly happen, not to forget that the plant is not only getting the sun it needs, it’s also getting nutrients from the ground as it climbs up trees.

  • Buttercups: Buttercups can easily tolerate flooding for 30 days, not to forget in low oxygen areas. This means that when there is a flood and there isn’t oxygen for the plants to use, the buttercup can store 30 days worth of oxygen.

This helps the buttercups by allowing the oxygen to continue to keep the plant’s capabilities of life going. All living organisms need oxygen, the buttercup showing that it is majorly important to it.

  • Bluebells: Bluebells are very well adapted to living in forests due to their ability to store energy and take advantage of the high energy periods and absorb the nutrients. This when they would complete their life cycle.

This helps the bluebells by allowing them to grow at an extremely rapid pace since they have the capabilities to store energy in their bulbs to use when full leaf comes around again to grow.

  • Ragwort: Ragwort has the ability to survive in many different habitats, allowing its population to spread and grow at a rapid pace.

This helps the ragwort by allowing the plant to grow in many different environments and habitats. They are also very compatible with certain soil contents, depending on if the drainage is proper.

  • Arum: Arrow arum relies on its seeds to do the reestablishment of the species. The arum seeds are held in capsules of fruit, which would rupture when soaked in water.

This helps the arum by allowing the seeds to have an easy transport, considering if a bird would kick a berry, all it needs is water, and before you know it, there might be a plant sprouting.

  • Bryony: Bryony carries a bryonin that is poisonous. They also have an extremely thick, white bulb that can easily store the seed of the plant without another organism coming through and easily destroying the plant’s seed.

This helps the bryony by keeping the plant itself safe from any predatory organisms that may try to destroy the plant, but the predator will either have troubles with getting to the seed and destroying it, or by the poisonous bryonin it carries.

  • Hemlock: Since hemlocks are trees, they need to be able to make it through winter. In fall, when the tree drops needles, the act prevents the cold, arid wind from evaporating and drying out the moisture of the tree. From here, the tree just needs to hold its moisture and survive the winds.

This helps the hemlock trees to keep them alive through winter by preventing the plant from drying out and potentially dying. Since the ground is frozen, the chance of getting water from frozen ground is nearly impossible, which is why this adaptation in trees is so important. The water is stored in its roots.

  • Aconite: Aconite carries deadly poison that once killed a gardener just by brushing him. He died of multiple organ failures. I will link the story down below in the sources area if you would like to check it out.

This helps the Aconite by allowing any predator that may just stroll by, to become weak and die through organ failure. I know this seems very harsh, but the plant is fighting for its life, like how we fight for ours.

  • Celandine: Celandine has orange sap that carries alkaloids that could be potentially poisonous.

This helps then celandine plant protect itself from any predatory animal in search to kill its plant. The predator will instead become weak of poison.

  • Corncockle: Corncockle also carries a poison, causing many problems actually. They were very common in European farm lands and were taking nutrients from crops. The population majorly decreased and is hardly ever seen in the wild anymore.

This helps the corncockle by protecting itself from predators. Now that they are no longer found in the wild, they still thrive on farmland, constantly being destroyed due to its capability to give the crops a bitter taste from its poison.

  • Cowslip: Cowslip is very commonly found in grasslands, which can be good and bad. The grasslands can allow an increase in the population of this plant. Here’s how:

This helps the cowslip by allowing the gusts of wild picking up throughout the land to carry seeds and help replant and grow the population.

  • Fool’s Parsley: Like many of these other plants, fool’s parsley is also poisonous due to alkaloids found throughout the entire plant, but don’t forget that since it’s a poisonous stem plant, it also carries a poison throughout its stem.

This helps the fool’s parsley from predators destroying the plants. Fool’s parsley can be highly poisonous in small amounts, and fatal in large amounts, so BE CAREFUL!

  • Henbane: Henbane also carries a poison consisting of stramonium and more alkaloids.

This helps out the henbane by injuring and potentially killing predators simply by allowing the predator to ingest its poison. The poison of henbane, like many other of these poisonous plants, can cause loss of muscular control, irregular heart beats, hallucination, coma, death, and much more.

  • Hedge Garlic: Hedge garlic is extremely invasive and once one plant is there, you’ll have and entire forest of them soon. They are not toxic but are very tough plants. The roots are well-grounded and can easily regrow the plant if needed.

This helps the hedge garlic in many situations. Lets say that someone is going through and cutting the plants at the base of the ground, the plant can grow right back since it still has its roots, all it needs is one root to grow back its plant.

  • Spurge: Spurge is an interesting plant with how it can adapt. It can sustain different soil types, but prefers sand due to the lack of other plants that can live within the arid and sandy area.

This helps the spurge because when the other plants die off, the spurge can take all of the nutrients left in the ground for itself and still thrive with 7 to 25 inches of rain annually, and when the temperatures are 50 to 100+ degrees Fahrenheit.

  • Traveler’s Joy: Traveler’s joy is a climbing plant which allows the capability for the plant to reach sun in a shady area. This can help the plant get its sunlight and its nutrients form the soil. The soil can also vary with this plant as well.

This helps the traveler’s joy by getting it the nutrients from the ground and the sunlight from the capability to climb. The soil differences that are safe can also help with the population growth to allow widespread population.

  • Tree Lupin: White lupin roots have the capability to change the way of their roots in case of a lack of phosphorous soils that they like.

This helps the plant to be able to survive without the extra nutrition they want, not need. The changing roots can help them find the nutrition to make up for the lack of phosphorous nutrients.

  • Wild Garlic: Wild garlic is very easily spread throughout farmland and grassland areas that are very fertile and nutritious. The plant is minorly toxic if consumed in large amounts.

This helps the wild garlic spread easily throughout the Midwest region of the United States of America due to the farmland and rich soil. This is great for the wild garlic, not for the farmers, especially since it is minorly toxic.

  • Wood Sorrel: Wood sorrel is a flower built to live in a forest where other plants can protect this flower. It is very weak, but has the capability to fold its leaflets down to prevent evaporation of moisture.

This helps the wood sorrel by preventing evaporation of the moisture it needs, especially when more sunlight is present, since its built to live in shade. This could potentially save the plant.

 

Sources:

I’m sorry that this post is so long. I realize that typing this is adding more to it, but I spend hours on this post, so please leave a like to show appreciation of what I’ve done.

Thank you for coming again for this post . I am now done with the safe and unsafe unit, and will now be going on with bringing rabbits outdoors and the details behind that subject. Leave a like so that I know that I’m doing this the way that you like and that this is all the style that you appreciate. Anyway, I will be talking to you in two days then, bye!